Panda: the animal that whispers in watchmakers' ears

Black, white, big eyes: that's all it took to inspire watch designers! The venerable panda has thus become the model for cult watches. The first of them has the status of a true icon. It is the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona. Chosen by the actor Paul Newman, the watch with a white dial and three black counters has become a legend. The model worn by the actor and pilot was sold for more than 15 million euros a few years ago, becoming the most expensive watch in history. But not only has the watch become an essential reference in the world of racing watches, but its aesthetics have also spread to all the sports creations of the last 50 years!

 

Big Red, the legend

The most emblematic model has a white dial, three black counters, and the mention Daytona inscribed at the top of the central counter, in red capital letters, hence the nickname "Big Red" associated with this model. This "panda" dial was quickly reversed, with a black dial and three white counters, earning the "reverse panda" label.

Why did this aesthetic quickly take hold? First, because of the Paul Newman phenomenon. Then, for its obvious qualities of perfect visibility. No watch face will offer a better contrast than one using white and black. This is an essential point for a chronograph, which must be able to read every second in a minimum of time - especially during a speed race! 

Rolex, Breitling and their world

Gradually, other models associated with the world of speed have taken over the same aesthetic. This is for example the case of the Breitling Chronomat, designed for aviation. The two new references currently available come in both panda and inverted panda versions. Same for the Breitling Premier as well as for the two Breitling SuperOcean, or the latest AVI.   

Not far from there, the young company Norqain has taken over the codes - not surprising insofar as one of the members of the brand's management is none other than the former CEO of...Breitling! The Norqain Freedom 60 is thus inspired by the inverted panda aesthetic, in retro-vintage mode, and now for a price defying all competition. 

Another surprise that is not a surprise: Tudor, which is a subsidiary ... of Rolex! It is therefore not surprising that the flagship model of the brand, the Black Bay, offers a very nice panda bicompax version. It also exists in reverse panda, with two interesting strap variations (fabric and leather strap). 

Contemporary models

As you can see, the panda format is above all that of the chronograph. Apart from the two emperors, Rolex and Breitling, other brands have been inspired by it to develop models that are less sharp, more urban, and intended to be worn on a daily basis. 

This is the case of Baume & Mercier. The Geneva-based company has enhanced its famous Capeland collection with a model that is 42 mm in diameter, bicompax, sober and uncluttered, but with a central red hand that recalls its racing ancestry. At only 73 CHF/month, it is the most accessible panda model at the moment, which allows you to treat yourself to a mythical aesthetic on an authentic mechanical movement of Swiss manufacture, signed by a Geneva-based company founded in 1830.   

The variants

As you can imagine, for the past 50 years, a large number of brands have adopted the panda design. Among them, Hamilton, Yema, Frédérique Constant, or Omega with the reference Speedmaster CK 2998, among others.

On the other hand, it is interesting to note that iconic chronograph brands, such as Zenith or TAG Heuer, make little use of it, or Montblanc, which has stopped the release of its Timewalker panda. Zenith prefers, for example, the blue variations of its iconic El Primero chronograph. At TAG Heuer, neither the Carrera nor the Autavia make use of it, while the Monaco has its own panda variation, which has become famous for its...blue dial! What about a blue panda ?