Opinion Watches & Wonders, Our top 10 favorite watches – Part I
The highly anticipated watch show of the year shone brightly for a whole week in Geneva in style! Manufacturers unveiled wonders, and some even dared to go crazy.
Watches and Wonders showcases 48 brands presenting their incredible novelties. That's a lot of watches to discover. Here are the ten that, in our humble opinion, stood out (in no order of preference, we wouldn't dare).Watches and Wonders showcases 48 brands presenting their incredible novelties. That's a lot of watches to discover. Here are the ten that, in our humble opinion, stood out (in no order of preference, we wouldn't dare).
Rolex, the new GMT Master II… And let there be light!
The brand has unveiled two new versions in 18-carat yellow gold and yellow Rolesor, each with a Cerachrom disc in grey and black ceramic. It's an unprecedented color combination that offers a harmonious contrast between the golden glow of the bracelet and the two-tone bezel.
And we can tell you that wearing an Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II is like never wanting to take it off. What makes these new features particularly exciting? The return of the solid gold Jubilee bracelet, of course! Wearing it on your wrist has a significant impact (and weight). With indexes and hands made of this precious metal, placed on a black lacquered dial, and the precision of the finishing: the play of light on the material is striking. On the mechanical side, the latest versions of the GMT-Master II are powered by the caliber 3285, which displays not only the time (not bad for a watch) but also the date and a second time zone in 24-hour format. Whether it's the two-tone or all-gold model, one thing is certain: Rolex knows how to pull on the heartstrings.
Hublot, there is a lightness in the air
When we saw this watch, our heart started to beat much faster. It's hard to describe what we felt. Maybe the feeling of being on a rollercoaster or in a Formula 1 car. Carbon is very popular in motorsport and the new Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon is, as the name suggests, "full carbon." Although we know that the manufacturer is always pushing the boundaries of material experimentation. It surprises us every time!
The latest version of the Big Bang watch features a combination of carbon fiber and Texalium used in the case and integrated bracelet, making it incredibly strong and light, with a total weight of only 68 grams. This model incorporates a sophisticated suspended tourbillon and a skeletonized micro-rotor visible respectively at 6 and 12 o'clock. Limited to 50 pieces only… You can almost hear a little voice in the distance saying, "My precious..." in the manner of Gollum.
Chopard, a high-frequency model
If you are looking for a watch that combines style, precision, and sportiness, you must get your hands on Chopard's new exceptional timepiece: the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF with its integrated titanium bracelet. The main novelty?
The black Pitch Black dial with subtle orange accents that covers one of the most advanced movements in the manufacturer's workshops, the Chopard 01.12-C caliber beating at a frequency of 8 Hz, twice as fast as a standard automatic movement. The codes of the Alpine Eagle collection are still present but with a much sportier look. A masterpiece of watchmaking prowess, we tell you!
Patek Philippe, a welcome first annual calendar...
...for the Aquanaut Luce collection! This unset rose gold timepiece features a blue-gray dial and a matching bracelet. The 39.9mm case houses the automatic caliber 26-330 S QA LU, with a central 21-carat gold rotor, and the annual calendar module with moon phases. The latter is inverted in the case, giving the calendar indications a different layout from other Patek Philippe watches with this complication. This very pleasant model is so accurate that the moon phase indicator deviates from the actual lunar cycle by only one day every 122 years (we have plenty of time to see that coming). A unique unisex model for unique people. And yes!
Tudor, when the Black Bay Burgundy makes its mark
Being Rolex’s “little sister” is not easy, you have to know how to stand out. The manufacture has therefore decided to bring back its iconic diving watch with of course its burgundy bezel. New design elements, a "T-fit" clasp, and a Master Chronometer certification by METAS (the Federal Institute of Metrology) affirm the new status of this Black Bay, the third version, the first version having been unveiled in 2012.
This model demonstrates the brand's mastery of a particularly demanding standard in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. With this timepiece, Tudor sets a new standard in terms of precision and reliability for mechanical watches. All this at a (relatively) reasonable price. That is to say around CHF 4200.-.
As you may have understood, Watches and Wonders is a bit like Ali Baba's cave version 2.0. With wonders to see, stunning technological advances, and brands to (re)discover. To be continued in the next episode!